In many ways Mumbai is a pretty typical metropolis- loud and filthy. With 17 million people is not small and being situated on an island (60% of which is reclaimed), it is very densely populated- something like 30,000 people per sq. km. Hundreds of refugees from the rural areas of the state come to Mumbai daily looking for a better life and it seems few find it. The level of poverty is mind-boggling. One third of the entire population lives on the streets and it is an incredible sight to behold. I, for one, have never seen so much poverty in one place. I saw some really sad things. It was jarring at first, but there is so much going on in the city as far as smells and noises and crazy traffic, that it is easy to divert your attention elsewhere and just keep walking. My second day I witnessed some unfortunate old guy get mowed over by a taxi in a busy street. People rushed in to help him, so I just turned around and tried not to let it affect me too much.
Friday, March 21, 2008
Mumbai (Bombay)
Saturday, March 8, 2008
Dubai
I feel as though I’ve been fairly tight lipped blog-wise during my trip up until now and while it’s not been for a lack of internet access or even inspiration, there are always a number of factors that can take priority, at the end of a day, over sitting down and logging an entry here and there. That said, as I am about to begin the second and most probably the more culturally interesting half of my journey through India (26 days) and China (31 days), I believe the real adventure has only just begun…
After passing through airport security “undetected”, I went to my 3 star hotel as there are no budget accommodation options in
Businesses in
While I was there all I really did was walk around for a couple of days and soak in the atmosphere of the city. The massive creek makes for great place to kick back and enjoy the views. Walking down the beach to the west you’ll find the 7-star Burj al-Arab hotel. It is designed to resemble the sail of a traditional boat and is built on its own manmade island that juts into the surf. The Burj Dubai building is the really tall and slender skyscraper in the photos. It may already be the tallest building in the world, but as they are still constructing upward, no one really knows yet. They don’t want to challenge competitors with measurement numbers.
Without a fat bank account and a car, it’s difficult to experience everything in
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Coming Full Circle
After busing through the south of Morocco and spending a few days in Marrakech, which proved very taxing on the senses, I stopped to relax and do nothing for a day in the southern coastal town of Ouarzazate. This was a good place to walk around in the sea breeze and check out the old ramparts that surround the port. Scattered around the fortifications remained many of the old canons that dated back to the 18th century and were made in Madrid and Barcelona, although I'm not positive the Spanish occupied the area during that time. Best of all was the fresh-caught seafood at the docks. Being one of Morocco's biggest fishing ports, Ouarzazate has been able to attract a respectable amount of tourism with its' rows of fish-grilling shacks located right next to the dock. This stuff couldn't get any fresher as the men bring the early morning's catch straight from the nets to the big ice-filled trays that stand next to the grills and tables. If it hadn't been cleaned yet, it was still moving. You pick out your prey, negotiate a price and chow.
After recouping in Ouarzazate I decided that I needed a change of pace and culture. And while Morocco turned out to be a very interesting experience that I really did enjoy, I realized at that point I had an opportunity to spend more time in Spain than I expected. It seemed like the right move. I took a bus all the way up the Atlantic coast, through Casablanca, to Tangier. After making ferry arrangements I went to the port and crossed the Straight of Gibraltar the next morning.
After recouping in Ouarzazate I decided that I needed a change of pace and culture. And while Morocco turned out to be a very interesting experience that I really did enjoy, I realized at that point I had an opportunity to spend more time in Spain than I expected. It seemed like the right move. I took a bus all the way up the Atlantic coast, through Casablanca, to Tangier. After making ferry arrangements I went to the port and crossed the Straight of Gibraltar the next morning.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Fes
Fes seemed to me to be the quintessential Moroccan city. While Marrakech attracts more tourism, Fes is the oldest imperial city and has always been the religious and cultural epicenter. Typical of the imperial cities, there three general areas of the city- the new town (French built), the Jewish quarter (Mullah) and the old town, or fortified medina. The medina is what makes Fes the authentic experience that it is. It's the largest living Islamic medieval city in the world. And while there is a certain amount of tourism, for the most part people live and work within the ancient city walls in much the same way as they have for centuries. For an outsider the medina is a huge labyrinth and at every turn the path ahead looks exactly the same. So you have to go into it planning on being lost and bewildered before you find your way out. The first day that I went, I focused on trying not to veer off the main alley, just to get a feeling for the whole scene. It's an onslaught on the senses. Sounds and smells and sights coming from all directions. Most people are working their daily lives; guiding donkey carts or doing their craft in their workshops. But everyone else is aggressively trying to get your attention. In the bazaars and souks, the shopkeepers want to sell you their wares (they always say, "Just to look, no to buy!") and the restaurants and cafes want you to sit and eat or at least take a cup of mint tea (commonly known as Moroccan whiskey).
Other than just walking around and checking things out, there are a number of sites to see within the medina walls. The Koranic universities, or medersas, are really interesting. Most were built during medieval times and the more ornate ones have very elaborate tile work and woodcarving. There are numerous mosques as well, although in Morocco non-believers are not welcome. While the religious sites are impressive, I enjoyed seeing the tanneries. Moroccans have been tanning leather in the same way for centuries and are known for a soft goat leather made for binding books.
The worst part of the medina experience, and indeed much of Morocco, are the faux or unofficial guides. Law enforcement has cracked down on this practice recently, but it is still very present. These hustlers are shameless in their pursuit of your obligatory "tip". They always pose as "students" or "friends" who are eager to show you whatever you want to see. And if you're not sure, they will happily provide numerous suggestions until something sounds interesting. The annoying part of these encounters is that they don't take no for an answer. You can politely decline their assistance and many times they will still follow you around trying to talk you into letting them guide you somewhere. At times, for the really persistent ones, it was easier to just tip them a few dirham to move on to someone else. I do feel for these guys, though, as they are just trying to get by. And while a third of Morocco's population is under fifteen and unemployment is soaring, getting by is becoming increasingly more difficult.
Hanging out in Fes is an experience to say the least. Its intensity makes it very difficult to sit idly by and observe Moroccan life. I doubt many tourists that are just passing through get a good grasp on the intricacies of the people. The culture does not seem to reveal it's soul easily, and with the combination of sensory overload and culture shock, it can be hard to see the Moroccan forest through it's trees.
Other than just walking around and checking things out, there are a number of sites to see within the medina walls. The Koranic universities, or medersas, are really interesting. Most were built during medieval times and the more ornate ones have very elaborate tile work and woodcarving. There are numerous mosques as well, although in Morocco non-believers are not welcome. While the religious sites are impressive, I enjoyed seeing the tanneries. Moroccans have been tanning leather in the same way for centuries and are known for a soft goat leather made for binding books.
The worst part of the medina experience, and indeed much of Morocco, are the faux or unofficial guides. Law enforcement has cracked down on this practice recently, but it is still very present. These hustlers are shameless in their pursuit of your obligatory "tip". They always pose as "students" or "friends" who are eager to show you whatever you want to see. And if you're not sure, they will happily provide numerous suggestions until something sounds interesting. The annoying part of these encounters is that they don't take no for an answer. You can politely decline their assistance and many times they will still follow you around trying to talk you into letting them guide you somewhere. At times, for the really persistent ones, it was easier to just tip them a few dirham to move on to someone else. I do feel for these guys, though, as they are just trying to get by. And while a third of Morocco's population is under fifteen and unemployment is soaring, getting by is becoming increasingly more difficult.
Hanging out in Fes is an experience to say the least. Its intensity makes it very difficult to sit idly by and observe Moroccan life. I doubt many tourists that are just passing through get a good grasp on the intricacies of the people. The culture does not seem to reveal it's soul easily, and with the combination of sensory overload and culture shock, it can be hard to see the Moroccan forest through it's trees.
Friday, January 18, 2008
Getting Started
I arrived in Casablanca just after midnight on the 5th of January and just after the airport train, that makes the 35 km trip into the city, had stopped running for the evening. Taking a cab to town, I got a room and began to sleep of the jetlag and reset my body clock. Casablanca holds very little for the visitor who has come looking to experience the traditional or cultural aspects of Morocco and has very few attractions. It is Morocco’s commercial center and seems very much like a large, modern European city.
I got out of town as soon as I felt rested and boarded a train to Meknes, one of the four imperial cities. In stark contrast to “Casa”, Meknes is a small and more relaxed city that continues to maintain a great deal of its colonial atmosphere. Most of the other travelers I’ve spoken with had not planned to include Meknes in their itineraries, preferring instead to go on to Fes. I had read, however, that Meknes could provide a more easy going introduction to the medina, and traditional Moroccan life in general, compared to the very lively and intense experience that can be found in Fes.
Volubilis is the primary reason I decided to stop and spend the night in Meknes. One of the Roman Empire’s farthest and most remote outposts, it is Morocco’s best preserved archaeological site. The Romans occupied this area just north of Meknes from about 40 to 280AD and in doing so, allowed Claudius to say he had penetrated the Atlas Mountains. The site’s points of interest include a capital, triumphant arch, baths and a basilica. It was also a key location for "The Last Temptation of Christ". What I appreciated most were the mosaics.
To Moroccans Meknes is known for one figure more than any other. The Sultan Moulay Ismail ruled from 1672 to 1727 and Meknes was the location of his imperial complex. A direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed, a pedigree that the current monarchy shares, he ruled in this period that was to be Morocco’s last golden age. Building Morocco’s strongest ever army, Moulay Ismail began a military campaign that would eventually bring all of present-day Morocco under his control by pushing back the Berber tribes to the south and relieving the British and Spanish of their territories in the north. It is the building achievements of Moulay Ismail that are of interest in this small imperial city. His architectural achievements include the cities’ palaces, gardens, and stables located below the winding medina. And his palace quarters are introduced by the country’s grandest gateway, Bab el- Mansour, which is framed by huge marble columns plundered from Volubilis.
From Meknes I took a bus about an hour east to Fes…
I should have my pictures online in 24 hours at www.kodakgallery.com/douglegrand
I got out of town as soon as I felt rested and boarded a train to Meknes, one of the four imperial cities. In stark contrast to “Casa”, Meknes is a small and more relaxed city that continues to maintain a great deal of its colonial atmosphere. Most of the other travelers I’ve spoken with had not planned to include Meknes in their itineraries, preferring instead to go on to Fes. I had read, however, that Meknes could provide a more easy going introduction to the medina, and traditional Moroccan life in general, compared to the very lively and intense experience that can be found in Fes.
Volubilis is the primary reason I decided to stop and spend the night in Meknes. One of the Roman Empire’s farthest and most remote outposts, it is Morocco’s best preserved archaeological site. The Romans occupied this area just north of Meknes from about 40 to 280AD and in doing so, allowed Claudius to say he had penetrated the Atlas Mountains. The site’s points of interest include a capital, triumphant arch, baths and a basilica. It was also a key location for "The Last Temptation of Christ". What I appreciated most were the mosaics.
To Moroccans Meknes is known for one figure more than any other. The Sultan Moulay Ismail ruled from 1672 to 1727 and Meknes was the location of his imperial complex. A direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed, a pedigree that the current monarchy shares, he ruled in this period that was to be Morocco’s last golden age. Building Morocco’s strongest ever army, Moulay Ismail began a military campaign that would eventually bring all of present-day Morocco under his control by pushing back the Berber tribes to the south and relieving the British and Spanish of their territories in the north. It is the building achievements of Moulay Ismail that are of interest in this small imperial city. His architectural achievements include the cities’ palaces, gardens, and stables located below the winding medina. And his palace quarters are introduced by the country’s grandest gateway, Bab el- Mansour, which is framed by huge marble columns plundered from Volubilis.
From Meknes I took a bus about an hour east to Fes…
I should have my pictures online in 24 hours at www.kodakgallery.com/douglegrand
Friday, October 12, 2007
Costa Rica
Costa Rica seems to be the country that everyone thinks of when Central America comes up in a conversation. It has been more stable than its neighbors with a long history of free elections and also has the highest rate of literacy and life expectancy in Central America. But more than that, its popularity is probably due to its many national parks and wildlife refuges and the eco-tourism and adventure-tourism industries that these places make possible.
When we crossed the border from Panama, we got a bus to San Jose. This was the first time that we found ourselves with no other option other than using an 80´s era Canada Blue Bird bus. If you already know what I´m talking about, you know how awesome these are. They´re more commonly known as ¨chicken buses¨, although they usually don´t have too many chickens on them. Anyway, the ride from the far eastern border of Panama to San Jose was not too bad. We got to the capital and headed northwest directly to a little town about 30 minutes further down the road. Apparently, although it is supposed to have some nice points of interest, most travelers just pass on through and never spend much time there. We stopped in a town called Alejuela to hang out for a day and visit a coffee plantation that Jane had looked into. It was fun with explanations of the history of coffee, as well as, their growth and production processes. And just like any tour of that kind, you get fed way too much of whatever the product is. So we left pretty loaded on caffeine and very enthusiastic about wherever our next stop was- which was probably just the hostel. At some point during this time, I started having some skin problems under my arm and we had no idea what it could be. After becoming somewhat painful I went to a clinic and talked to a doctor. He said that the lymphnodes were swollen and it was nothing serious, and thereby squashed all talk of armpit cancer.
Our next destination was the Arenal volcano, which is supposed to be the most active in Central America. It is in the middle of the jungle and attracts enough tourists to support a nice town. Of course, the jungle itself attracts tourists as well that come to take wildlife viewing walks, raft and horseback ride. Arenal smokes a lot during the day and when the fog lifts you´re able to see lava come down the side at night. We took a tour that included a jungle hike and a chance to watch the lava. On the hike, they split us up into English and Spanish groups and we got a few awkward looks of betrayal as we chose the Spanish group because it was smaller. The walk was really interesting and we were able to see howler monkeys and many species of birds. Watching the lava come down the volcano was great as well, but it only lasted a few minutes before they herded everyone into the bus to head off to an area of hot springs created by the underground activity of the volcano. A local hotel has a huge hot springs park where you go and try out tubs of varying degrees. They ranged from something like 95 to 156 Fahrenheit. Yeah 156. We were happy in the 105 and hit a few other pools. We tried the 113 and it was way too hot. The 156 must just be a sick joke.
From Arenal we went by boat and jeep to the Monteverde Cloudforest Reserve that protects the last sizeable tracts of primary cloudforest in Mesoamerica. Other than taking a guided jungle walk and seeing the legendary quetzal (long tailed bird in the pictures), we did a canopy tour. These are made up of a network of suspension bridges streching from the ground to different hights up in the tree tops. From up there you´re able to get really good views and see many species that only live higher up in the trees. The agency that we went with also had a zip line course that allowed you to harness up and slide down cables from platform to platform in the canopy. It was a real experience and I think the pictures are able to capture it to some degree.
While we enjoyed Costa Rica a lot, it definitely put a dent in ole budget. The exchange rate from dollars is around 500 colones, but you´re still usually paying 4000 colones for lunch. Also, Costa Ricans seemed to have much more drive and vision than we ever saw in Peru and that was really refreshing. I have been able to upload a few photos, so go to ofoto.com and sign in with my gmail address and then the password is legrand01. Hope you enjoy them.
Total bus hours- 32.3
When we crossed the border from Panama, we got a bus to San Jose. This was the first time that we found ourselves with no other option other than using an 80´s era Canada Blue Bird bus. If you already know what I´m talking about, you know how awesome these are. They´re more commonly known as ¨chicken buses¨, although they usually don´t have too many chickens on them. Anyway, the ride from the far eastern border of Panama to San Jose was not too bad. We got to the capital and headed northwest directly to a little town about 30 minutes further down the road. Apparently, although it is supposed to have some nice points of interest, most travelers just pass on through and never spend much time there. We stopped in a town called Alejuela to hang out for a day and visit a coffee plantation that Jane had looked into. It was fun with explanations of the history of coffee, as well as, their growth and production processes. And just like any tour of that kind, you get fed way too much of whatever the product is. So we left pretty loaded on caffeine and very enthusiastic about wherever our next stop was- which was probably just the hostel. At some point during this time, I started having some skin problems under my arm and we had no idea what it could be. After becoming somewhat painful I went to a clinic and talked to a doctor. He said that the lymphnodes were swollen and it was nothing serious, and thereby squashed all talk of armpit cancer.
Our next destination was the Arenal volcano, which is supposed to be the most active in Central America. It is in the middle of the jungle and attracts enough tourists to support a nice town. Of course, the jungle itself attracts tourists as well that come to take wildlife viewing walks, raft and horseback ride. Arenal smokes a lot during the day and when the fog lifts you´re able to see lava come down the side at night. We took a tour that included a jungle hike and a chance to watch the lava. On the hike, they split us up into English and Spanish groups and we got a few awkward looks of betrayal as we chose the Spanish group because it was smaller. The walk was really interesting and we were able to see howler monkeys and many species of birds. Watching the lava come down the volcano was great as well, but it only lasted a few minutes before they herded everyone into the bus to head off to an area of hot springs created by the underground activity of the volcano. A local hotel has a huge hot springs park where you go and try out tubs of varying degrees. They ranged from something like 95 to 156 Fahrenheit. Yeah 156. We were happy in the 105 and hit a few other pools. We tried the 113 and it was way too hot. The 156 must just be a sick joke.
From Arenal we went by boat and jeep to the Monteverde Cloudforest Reserve that protects the last sizeable tracts of primary cloudforest in Mesoamerica. Other than taking a guided jungle walk and seeing the legendary quetzal (long tailed bird in the pictures), we did a canopy tour. These are made up of a network of suspension bridges streching from the ground to different hights up in the tree tops. From up there you´re able to get really good views and see many species that only live higher up in the trees. The agency that we went with also had a zip line course that allowed you to harness up and slide down cables from platform to platform in the canopy. It was a real experience and I think the pictures are able to capture it to some degree.
While we enjoyed Costa Rica a lot, it definitely put a dent in ole budget. The exchange rate from dollars is around 500 colones, but you´re still usually paying 4000 colones for lunch. Also, Costa Ricans seemed to have much more drive and vision than we ever saw in Peru and that was really refreshing. I have been able to upload a few photos, so go to ofoto.com and sign in with my gmail address and then the password is legrand01. Hope you enjoy them.
Total bus hours- 32.3
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Panama
Initially I didn't think Panama would be one the highlights of our trip and while that remains to be seen, we definitely underestimated it. In the six days we were there we planned to see Panama City, take a train to the Atlantic coast and tour the main locks of the Panama Canal and spend three days at the Caribbean town of Bocas del Toro to snorkel and scuba dive.
Panama City was a lively, diverse area of about a million people who are supposed to be among the sharpest and most sophisticated in Central America. Located on one of the greatest crossroads in the world, it resembles a booming industrial area of south east Asia more than the typical, traditional urban centers in the rest of Central America. With scores of cranes and half constructed skyscrapers, its skyline looks more like Hong Kong´s probably does. Next to the city we were able to visit the remains of Panama viejo, the original town founded in 1519, and explore the city grid as well as a few ruins. It was very interesting to be able to take pictures of an ancient cathedral with so much modern construction in the background.
From Panama City we took a train ride next to the canal to the Caribbean coastal town of Colon to watch the mega container ships pass through the stages of the Gatun Locks. The best way to view the canal is supposed to be by boat, but tours are expensive and are only offered a few times a month. It would be much easier to let pictures describe what this process looks like, but basically the ships are brought up from sea level in three stages where they are able to continue on to the locks on the pacific side through the man-made Gatun Lake. Many of these ships are able to carry up to 5,000 containers and pay according to type of cargo. The ship we saw go through was hauling cars from Korea and was charged about $190,000. It was a very cool experience. The town of Colon hosts the second biggest duty-free zone in the world after Hong Kong. Otherwise it's a dump. It has a reputation for violent crime and even broad-daylight muggings are not uncommon. After seeing the canal, we took a tour of the city and as our tour guide was telling us how Colon gets a bad rap, he instictively pulled out a nine-millimeter and set it on the dash.
Bocas del Toro is a very relaxing spot on the Caribbean next to the border of Costa Rica. We hung out for three days while snorkeling and drinking the local beer called ¨Soberana¨. I got to scuba for the first time in salt water and really enjoyed it. Amongst the coral, we saw a nurse shark, lobsters and an eel.
So far everything is going really well and when I get a chance I want to post a few pics. We´re looking forward to Costa Rica for an active volcano, a coffee plantation and a jungle canopy walk.
Total bus hours: 11.0
Panama City was a lively, diverse area of about a million people who are supposed to be among the sharpest and most sophisticated in Central America. Located on one of the greatest crossroads in the world, it resembles a booming industrial area of south east Asia more than the typical, traditional urban centers in the rest of Central America. With scores of cranes and half constructed skyscrapers, its skyline looks more like Hong Kong´s probably does. Next to the city we were able to visit the remains of Panama viejo, the original town founded in 1519, and explore the city grid as well as a few ruins. It was very interesting to be able to take pictures of an ancient cathedral with so much modern construction in the background.
From Panama City we took a train ride next to the canal to the Caribbean coastal town of Colon to watch the mega container ships pass through the stages of the Gatun Locks. The best way to view the canal is supposed to be by boat, but tours are expensive and are only offered a few times a month. It would be much easier to let pictures describe what this process looks like, but basically the ships are brought up from sea level in three stages where they are able to continue on to the locks on the pacific side through the man-made Gatun Lake. Many of these ships are able to carry up to 5,000 containers and pay according to type of cargo. The ship we saw go through was hauling cars from Korea and was charged about $190,000. It was a very cool experience. The town of Colon hosts the second biggest duty-free zone in the world after Hong Kong. Otherwise it's a dump. It has a reputation for violent crime and even broad-daylight muggings are not uncommon. After seeing the canal, we took a tour of the city and as our tour guide was telling us how Colon gets a bad rap, he instictively pulled out a nine-millimeter and set it on the dash.
Bocas del Toro is a very relaxing spot on the Caribbean next to the border of Costa Rica. We hung out for three days while snorkeling and drinking the local beer called ¨Soberana¨. I got to scuba for the first time in salt water and really enjoyed it. Amongst the coral, we saw a nurse shark, lobsters and an eel.
So far everything is going really well and when I get a chance I want to post a few pics. We´re looking forward to Costa Rica for an active volcano, a coffee plantation and a jungle canopy walk.
Total bus hours: 11.0
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